Swaziland meals ideally suited to the environment and lifestyles of its peoples
To many people, the African continent is called “mysterious” and “fascinating” because it continues to reveal clues that enhance our understanding of human and earth history. Each discovery of human fossils, new animal and plant species, and precious metals reminds us that Africa can no longer be called the “Dark Continent,” a term created by early European explorers who did not understand its peoples and treasures. African nations have stepped into the modern world and enlightened us on the beauty and power of appreciating unique cultures. It is the cultural uniqueness that sets apart the Kingdom of Swaziland, one of the last remaining African monarchies, and a country that embraces tradition, including food.
Landlocked Swaziland is mostly bordered by South Africa, but a section of the eastern border touches Mozambique. The country has a complicated history, and many of the popular dishes today reflect past events. The evidence of past cultures is dated to the Middle Stone Age, nearly 300,000 years ago, but it was not until the 1830s that Swaziland first came into contact with British colonists and South African Dutch farmers called Boers. However, in 1968, the independent Kingdom of Swaziland was created, ending a long period as a protectorate of foreign nations. Today, Swaziland is ruled as a modified traditional monarchy, which is dedicated to the preservation of a rich cultural history. The population is comprised primarily of ethnic Swazi, some Zulus and a small group of Europeans who are mostly British and Afrikaners (Dutch).
Historically, the type of food making up meals was closely tied to the seasons. There is little variety of foods in the winter and spring, but late spring and summer bring many fruits and vegetables that broaden the table offerings. Swazis developed a staple porridge food called liphalishi or pap, which is made from mealie meal (also spelled as mielie meal), the sub-Saharan term for ground maize (corn). Often beans, groundnuts and a liquid are added for a more nourishment. As a frame of reference, it is similar to the versatile polenta when made firmer and to grits when cooked thinner. The pap can be eaten alone, fried, or served with vegetables and meat. Spices are often added also.
Naturally, over the decades, new foods and spices were introduced. A favorite dish that developed and is still popular has the delightful name of chicken dust, which is grilled chicken. Tender, tasty and filling, it is sold in numerous food stands on the side of the road, which is why the dish has this particular nickname. Food stands sell accompaniments like shredded beetroot cakes or emafeti (fat cakes). Fat cakes are boiled dough balls, reminiscent of hush puppies popular in the Southern U.S. As a restaurant entrée, chicken dust is accompanied with pap, a salad and perhaps some spicy mango chutney or something similar. The salad may be a type of coleslaw tossed in a tangy dressing or made with ginger and avocado (slaai). Ginger, lime juice and garlic are commonly used in Swazi dishes, and that is actually a French influence.
In Swaziland, the cooked meat may be goat, antelope (impala or deer) or ostrich. Braai is the term for barbecued or grilled meat, and is often the main dish at social gatherings. Swazi Bobotie is a classic spiced meatloaf made from minced meat, like goat. The delicious mixture of spices includes cloves, curry powder, cumin seeds, ground turmeric and black pepper. Chopped peanuts, orange leaves and lemon juice add yet more flavors. The meatloaf is baked in spiced egg custard.
The Karoo Roast Ostrich Steak is marinated thinly sliced ostrich meat. The marinade is made from red wine and juniper berries. The steaks are served over a pumpkin and mealie meal mash and then covered with a sauce made from white wine, cream and green bell peppers.
Visitors dining in Swaziland restaurants speak enthusiastically about foods like vegetable stews, fresh spinach picked from someone’s garden and chicken dishes that melt in the mouth. Fish dishes are served in higher priced restaurants, but the fish must be imported since Swaziland is landlocked. Sustainable travelers may want to seek out the restaurants that try to buy locally as much as possible. These restaurants are likely to be following traditional recipes as part of the overall effort to preserve Swaziland culture.
The First Taste is Reserved for Royalty
It is impossible to talk about food and not mention at least one of the many festivals held to honor the changing seasons. The Swaziland Marula Festival is one of the largest, longest and most spectacular. Beginning in February, King Mswati III and the Queen Mother initiate the festival that celebrates the harvest of the marula fruit. The green fruit falls from trees to the ground, is gathered and stored until it turns yellow. Marula fruit is used to make Marula beer, and the royal family gets the first taste each year. The fruit flesh supplies Swazis with vitamins and minerals.
Travelers will find plenty of restaurants in Ezulwini, Mbabane and Manzini, and one or two each in Big Bend, Nsoko and Malkern. Not all of the restaurants serve authentic Swaziland food, so it is important to talk to the locals to find out which ones serve true Swaziland versus European dishes. These restaurants may require a little more effort to find because they tend to be off the beaten track.
Swaziland food is simple but flavorful. It could be called comfort food, in that it is healthy and reflects an age-old food culture that is perfectly suited to the local environment. In this day and age of unpredictability, we could all use a little comfort.
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