Argentina is a meat-loving country with a long list of specialties that redefine ‘savory.’ Meat rules over most meals!
By John Jacobs
Argentina’s iconic gaucho is an image most people are familiar with, even if they have never been to this South American country. The gaucho or cowboy represents the roots of the beef industry that began with sprawling cattle ranches and led to Argentina becoming a major beef exporter.
Beef is a national food and delights the palate in a variety of ways – grilled, roasted, minced, deep fried, barbecued and stewed. It is not the only food, of course, but sometimes it seems that way. That is just fine for Argentinians who take great pride in their meats and cooking styles.
Mediterranean Influences
The Spanish colonized Argentina in the 16th century, and Europeans, mostly from Italy, arrived during 1880-1890. The result is Argentinian cuisine has a distinctive Mediterranean influence.
To the unprepared, there are unexpected surprises like onion and cheese pizza (fugazetta); an Italian type of focaccia bread served with cheese (fogaza); Spanish empanadas (meat pies) served with a sauce like salsa cayena; and lots of homemade pasta covered with a red meat, pesto or cream sauce. Lasagna and spaghetti are favorite meals.
Tasty side dishes include marinated eggplant (Berenjena en Escabeche), grilled herb-topped cheese (provoleta), and boiled corn husk filled with a mush made of corn and cheese (humitas). Common vegetables include onions, zucchini, different squashes, potatoes (mostly in recipes and not alone), and onions. Lettuce salads accompany big stakes.
Surprisingly, Argentina has a long coastline, but fish is not a major element of the diet. There are plenty of theories as to why this is true, but it may be likely that beef simply overwhelmed the cuisine. Fish did not stand much of a chance in a meat-driven culture. Typical fish or fish recipes include atun y morrones (tuna and roasted red pepper) tomatoes stuffed with tuna salad, crab, and scallops. Gefilte fish is becoming more popular in restaurants. Usually, more seafood is eaten during the holidays than the rest of the year.
Taming the Cattle
There is not a lot more to say about Argentina’s cuisine without talking about meat. There is no question that meat cooked every way imaginable is the national food of this interesting country. Meat is grilled, barbecued, boiled, fried, stewed and baked. If Argentinians could think of other ways to cook meat, they would be on the list.
The beef industry in Argentina is world-renowned for its quality and flavor, which is attributed to the cattle feeding on luscious humid pampas grass rather than on feedlot grains. Health conscious people who enjoy beef will like knowing that grass feed usually has less saturated fats and more omega three fatty acids than grain. Argentina’s grass-fed cows are not fed growth hormones and antibiotics either because they are feeding in a natural environment. The beef industry dates back to 1536 when the Spanish conquistadors brought and released cattle on flat grasslands that gauchos later tamed.
On Sundays, it is common for Argentinian families to asado (barbecue), a variety of meats on a parrilla (grill) or over an open fire. A mixed grill (parrillada) may contain short ribs; steaks; sausages; tripe; sweetbreads (mollejas); and other cuts of meat, offal, chicken and pork. All the cuts of meat are available, and even the internal organs (offals) of the cow are considered a delicacy. Nothing goes to waste.
Since the beef is usually eaten within a few days of slaughter, rather than aged a week or more, a host of recipes were developed over the centuries that produce savory meat dishes. To make up for the lack of aging, meat is usually cooked slowly and thoroughly. Some meat is seared on the outside to trap rare (jugoso) or medium rare (a punto) meat on the inside, but a grilled steak (churrasco) is more likely to be cooked medium to well done (bien cocido). Steaks are usually served with chimichurri, a green heavy-on-the-garlic sauce that includes oregano, parsley, chili pepper flakes, onion, olive oil, and vinegar or lemon juice.
Beef is not only grilled. Meat empanadas are turnovers made with a flaky dough pocket that is filled with ground beef (or ground chicken or seafood) and other ingredients like cheese, mushrooms and spinach. The pocket is sealed and baked or fried. Milanesa is a pounded piece of meat (or chicken) that is dipped in breadcrumbs and usually fried (think chicken fried steak).
In the northwest, the hearty locro (stew) is made with meat, potatoes, corn, beans and grains. Traditional carbonada is another type of stew that includes ingredients like round squash, chunks of beef or pork sausage, onions, tomatoes, carrots, corn, sweet potatoes, and sweet fruit like peaches or apricots to add sweetness.
Sweet Tooth
Argentinians love their sweets, too. The morning croissants (medialunas) are probably the least sweet pastry served.
One of the country’s perfected treats is sweet milk (dulce de leche), a caramelized concoction made of thickened, sweetened cream boiled until it darkens to rich caramel color. It is used as a filling in cookies and pastries, or is served with, or on top of, cake. Chocotorta is a layered chocolate cake with one layer being a dark chocolate biscuit and another layer made of cream cheese mixed with dulce de leche. Ice cream and gelato are also popular.
The only thing that seems to compete with meat is yerba mate (cup), a national drink. The bitter herbal and strong caffeine drink represents a social custom as much as a beverage because it is meant to be drunk communally. People also drink it when alone, often from a gourd, but they willingly share, even with strangers, when given the chance. Yerba is a rainforest holly tree that has been offering sustenance since the days of when the indigenous peoples were the only habitats. The tea flavor is compared to green tea and has a variety of health benefits.
Quite honestly, it is refreshing to find a country that unapologetically loves meat, a food often excoriated for being unhealthy. Argentinians believe that cattle raised naturally and beef cooked properly can be healthy as well as delicious. If you are lucky, one day you can find out for yourself.
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